September 28th Tlacotalpan - Villahermosa 236 miles

The roof tops of Villahermosa (looks like a nice town)

It's quite difficult finding places to stay that make the journey divide into equal distances. For example my journey tomorrow is 430 miles or so, this will take me to the Guatemalan border and my last night in Mexico (hopefully). I decided against going to Belize as it is further and it would be just going there to avoid Guatemala, which I have to go through anyway. So I've decided to man up and take Guatemala on. But first I have to get across the border without the correct paperwork. You'll hear more of that in a few days time.

Today was blistering hot and my love affair with speed bumps continued - but I have discovered they have a purpose other than to slow traffic down. I believe it is a new economic plan on the part of the Mexican Finance minister to bolster trade and entrepreneurship. At every speed bump there are people young and old trying to sell an array of things to eat, drink and wear. As a concept its quite good, because with little overheads there is an open marketplace for one's goods. Although being on a bike is a huge disappointment to me and to them I suspect. Seriously though, for the first time I have thought about the importance of roads other than their intended purpose. These roads must be the lifeblood for these rural communities, just like the rail network created new towns in 19th century Britain, these roads are doing likewise in developing Mexico. There is a huge roadbuilding programme and one doesn't travel far before one see's roads being built, extended or improved.
It is novel though to see how these new motorways are being used, to date I have seen users from cyclist, pedestrians, a tandem and numerous motorcyclist with the family on board little 125cc machines. Scattered along the motorway, usually found under bridges, are farmers and their young family selling their produce, bananas, pineapple and melons. (Sometimes it is just the juice of these products). This is common, but today I was surprised at what else  was being sold. From a distance I could see a young boy waving a stick vigorously. This is not unusual as young boys are often given the job of waving sticks to slow down the traffic, where there are road works, But this time there was clearly not a digger or tar spreader in sight. As I got closer I thought, 'He must be selling un-ripened bananas,' as I viewed bright yellow and green crescent shapes on the end of a stick. In utter disbelief I discovered he was neither a 'Warner of Danger' nor a 'Young Farmer' but a one man mobile pet shop, selling of all things Budgerigars. If you did stop to buy one, how would you get it home? There were no cages visible for sale. Perhaps its a Mexican delicacy  I mischievously thought, though I couldn't see any tacos or fajitas being offered as an accompaniment. How did they keep them on the stick I wondered- they didn't appear to be fastened down. Further down the road I was not fooled by other young boys selling their banana impersonators.
Today I also passed into the State of Tobasco (where the sauce originated one presumes) and at each State crossing there is a pseudo customs check and the offices and officers associated with this. In Tobasco, two young people with outstretched hands waved us onwards. In their hands were hard hats turned upside down and I assumed intended for the collection of money. I threw a few coins into the hat - mainly because I thought I may be being watched by border guards ahead and I might be treated leniently, if they noticed my generosity. I hadn't a clue what the insignia on their uniform stood for and for all I knew it could have been the Budgie Liberation Front. Anyway I was ignored as I drove through, along with everyone else driving through in both directions. Who am I to spoil a good chat with your mates? As I passed along I noticed a van with the same Logo as the one the young people had on their uniforms. It was the Emergency Ambulance Services - so not just us with a crumbling Health Service. A sign of things to come! 

The temperature increased and hit a stifling 37 degrees but there were black clouds ahead. Today's 'agua ducha' was brief and just long enough to give my clothes a good wash (one less job to do this evening) and blow dry. Before hitting the town of Villahermosa I filled up the tank and my jerry can, as tomorrow I will need to leave early if I'm to make Tapachula before dark. This should mean only having to stop once for fuel. I'm not looking forward to such a long distance, but I feel I must leave Mexico having spent nearly 2 weeks here. I never intended staying so long and truthfully this was because of some of the horror stories you hear about the place. In reality the people and the places are great and in my humble opinion I preferred this country to the States. I have not felt threatened or unsafe, apart from my own paranoia on the first few days. However, my opinion may change after my encounters with the border guards on Friday.

* Footnote 
The lake I passed a few days ago is called Lago de Cuitzo