Galax to Cherokee Sept 10th
I wrote this blog offline in my tent (yippee) half way down a mountain in the Great Smokies. It is devine and serendipity brought me here. I had entered into SS the name of a campsite id found on the internet, my settings for SS are fastest route and avoiding motorways and tolls. having done all of 270 of my 280 MILES it directed me down a sharp right turn and before I knew it there was no going back, too steep, too narrow and just a dirt track. It was a little worrying as I’d not really tested the bike’s off road abilities but more concerning was my own ability to ride the bike fully laden down difficult terrain. if i’d been on my mountain bike I’ be so pleased as it wasn't too technical,  but it became technical with a quarter of ton of machinery and a fat boy on top, it felt very heavy. 

The track twisted and turned down quite steep terrain and I was praying it didn't get worse. It was made up of very loose chipping, which felt like riding on marbles with the front wheel skitting over them twitchily. Strangely the faster I went the better it behaved, but i had to measure my speed in order to safely take it around tight hairpin bends. Touching the brakes on these corners was not to be advised. Just when I began to feel more confident my heart was set a beating as I heard the sound of a large vehicle coming up the hill, it sounded like a tractor. There was no where for me to go and no room for me to pull over. Through the trees i could see headlights, it looked large with a series of spotlights shining through the darkening evening. As the sound got closer i suddenly turned  the approaching hairpin, to my relief and utter disbelief it was three very large and extremely heavy Harley Davidsons, there was no waving of acknowledgement as we passed one another as all riders had the same look of complete concentration. Knowing that the beast had made it made me feel more confident that my relative light weight bike could easily do it.

SS was telling me I still had 6 miles to go, which was a little concerning, but after a further 2 miles i spied a campsite set amongst the trees. The sign read Indian Creek Campground. As I approached I could smell campfires and the sounds of young children running around. I was so pleased to be here but surprised that the Sally Satnav was four miles out. I quickly checked in, bought some milk and matches in anticipation of my eagerly awaited cup of tea. (first in two days). But first I I had  erect my tent which I'd only done once before, in the comfort of my garden back home. The ground was rocky, I was hot and tired but after a relatively short time it was up, but in a fashion. Next time will be better I told myself. Unpacked the bike, threw sleeping gear into the tent and set about putting together my new stove ready for a brew (homage to Bruce). It all went smoothly, the flame was lit and my pan balanced precariously on top of the stove. Strange that my large pan seemed too small to sit comfortably on the supports. It was also taking ages but eventually I had my first brew in my hands - it tasted perfect! I added more water for the second helping. While sipping I decided to root out the instructions for the stove - no words just pictures. My second boil was still some way off  and I noticed that the base of the stove was red hot, so how come my pan wasn't boiling I asked myself. On closer inspection of the pictures

 and comparing them to my stove I realised my error - the stove was upside down with the burner facing downwards!! I began to laugh at my own stupidity, then realised how potentially dangerous this was and quickly set about correcting my error. It was amazing how quickly it boiled with the pan on its proper supports and the flame underneath the pan.

After the brew and a bowl of cereal, i decided to ride into Cherokee itself to have a quick gander but also to find a McDonalds where i could access wifi. I’d sent Jen and Sal a txt earlier in the day asking how their first week at school had gone and I was curious to know the answer. On the way down, which had now become tarmac, i was struck by the beauty of the place. Eventually i hit a main road and entered a larger valley which had a lot more traffic and a mile further down the road I spotted a huge campsite with fencing along its perimeter and every conceivable amusement for man and boy and the girls as well. This was the one that SS was trying to take me to, absolutely no class that girl, it was horrible and tacky with its Disneyesque version of a reservation. 

I found a BurgerKing which had wifi and spent a good hour with my cup of coffee, firing off emails and of course reading all about Man City’s famous victory over Man Utd (thanks Ange for sending txt updates earlier in the day). By the way Cherokee was unlike the other two towns id stayed in, this one was thriving with many visitors buying tacky ‘Indian’ souvenirs. It had no real merit, but I suppose it brings work to the indigenous population, which was more than Strasburg and Galax could offer.

Ps Cherokee is in North Carolina, my 5th state and tomorrow I hope to do two more Georgia and Alabama - a long day but its a blooming big country

Cherokee Indian Campsite (the gravel was my mattress for the night)