Nazca to Abancay

October 27th Nazca to Abancay

It was going to be a hot day in Nazca, it was in the low 20’s at 7.45 and I was glad I was heading into the hills. Leaving Nazca I soon began to climb and climb, switchback after switchback, it felt pleasant in the morning sun. I was still climbing 2 hours later, having only covered 60 of the 285 miles to do. Nearing the end of the climb I came across a fox by the side of the road, he eyed me suspiciously and as only foxes can, wandered off with a great aloofness. He looked a little different to our foxes back in Britain, more brown than red and more patterned around his shoulders. It was great coming up so close and I’m sure if I had have stopped he would have stood there for his photo. After missing this photo opportunity, I decided to pull out my camera from its bag and strap it around my neck. My iPhone is currently back up satnav, so I’m reluctant to use as a camera in case I lose the directions typed in at my last hotel.

The altitude took me by surprise as I hadn't anticipated climbing quite so high, I began to have a slight headache and had very dry lips and mouth. Once the climbing in ernest stopped, I noticed the altimeter was at 4500 metres and I hovered around this altitude for most of the day. I am used to a climb then followed by a steep descent but today I stayed high on a plateau that stretched for over 120 miles. The hot temperatures of the valley floor were gone and I was under the high cloud and temperatures hovering between 13 and 15 degrees. It felt quite cold, but the consolation was the ride, long sweeping bends where 50/60mph could be maintained.

View from the top

My next treat up on this plateau were the herds of Llamas (or are they alpacas- can someone look at the pictures and let me know)) roaming freely. They are abundant and obviously farmed as there were many shepherds huts scattered in isolated places and circular compounds where they must be rounded up there. It was an interesting landscape as it was not too dissimilar from Dartmoor and even had many drystone walls.

 Wildlife grazing (I think these are vicuna)

Fluffy creatures by the side of the road (difinitely alpaca)

I managed to get fuel at a small settlement but that was the only fuel stop in over 200 miles. I had my jerry full, but that is only to be used if absolutely necessary. I have got into the habit of stopping whenever I see fuel and topping up. At this petrol station they had 98 octane fuel (the first I've seen), I guess the higher octanes are need to compensate for the effects of altitude on the engines. Bonito seemed not to notice and powered on as normal and with the chain correctly tensioned he was sweet to ride. When the temperature dropped to 13 degrees I began to get quite cold (I'd foolishly taken out the inner liner of my jacket in the heat of Nazca and had not put it back) so on went the gloves and the heated grips. Tomorrow I will reinsert the liner and wear a thermal tshirt as there is more climbing up to Cusco.

The landscape is stunning and so different from the coastal desert. I'm looking forward to getting into the greener mountains near Cusco. Abancay is at 2,300 meters and Cuzco is another 1000 metre higher. Abancay is famous for a battle fought between two conquistadors Pizarro and Almago. Copper is mined here and production of silk and liquor. Though in a beautiful amphithetre surrounded by mountains, the town is not pretty. The roads are poor and in a state of disrepair. According to legend the town used to be further up the valley, but the statue of the Virgin Mary kept in the church kept disappearing and turning up at a large rock further down the valley. The religious leaders, thought it was a sign and built a shrine to the Virgin Mary by the rock and eventually it became the centre of activity and the town moved there! By the rock is the Cathedral of Abancay.

Tomorrow is only 130 miles, but they'll be slow ones. I'll have  a late morning start and make sure I am properly attired - there may even be rain. Cusco is a world heritage site so it will be busy and full of tourist - will be strange seeing Europeans again.

Funeral procession from Hotel window - second one I have witnessed today!


* There are four types of Camelid in South America - Llamas and Alpacas are domesticated breeds that have no wild counterparts. Guanacos and Vicunas are the respective wild cousins of the above. I managed yesterdat to see all four creatures but caught only Alpacas and Vicunas on film