Leaving Quinto with the snow capped mountain looking over us
Just had the most glorious day in the most part riding deserted mountain roads in a stunning landscape - this is what i travelled all these miles for. The weather was perfect, if a little cold high up on the tops, but with my gloves on and heated grips I was toasty. These roads are perfect for biking and if they were in Europe there would be hundreds of motorbikes climbing these passes. The stretch after Paso Lateral was the best section - this is where Tinks and Google had a difference of opinion as to which way to go, I sided with Google as she has been the more reliable. However, I backed another loser, the directions did not match the road on the ground and I finished up doing twenty miles extra. It was through the most sublime landscape and riding, so it didn't really matter.
The orderliness of these farms is astounding - very few tractors here!
As I drive south the people are definitely more indigenous natives, and you've guessed it poorer! It is criminal to think that us Europeans have subjugated and oppressed the indigenous peoples all around the world. The costumes of the women are great and I'll try to capture one before I leave Ecuador. In appearance and dress they look very much like the native Peruvians you see in pictures. The Incas would have dominated all of this region, so it is no surprise that their peoples share an ethnic and cultural identity.
The little detour that Google took me on sent me through this delightful small town of Alausi
The 300 or so miles covered today took me around 8 and a quarter hours. So do the maths and you'll see my average speed is slow. It is frustrating as it means long days and slow progress. I wasn't slacking either, I had two petrol stops and one quick drinks stop, which in total was about 1/2 hour. Google took me right to the door of my hotel, which is right in the heart of the City. I went for a wander after checking in, in search of a cashpoint and something to eat. Cuenca is delightful and vibrant despite the extensive road works (they are putting in a tram network). The Hotel Manager had directed me to a super restaurant which served a lovely meal and drinks all for around £10. Outside in the square was loud live music being performed from the Bandstand. It all added up to an enjoyable evening to cap off a wonderful day.
The night life of Cuenca Music in the street can't be beaten
Tomorrow I had planned to drive all the way to the border with one last night in Ecuador, but all the hotels appear to be full - so I have found an Airbnb some 100 miles from the border, in a town called Loja. This is ok, as it will mean getting to the border around noon and entering Peru by mid afternoon on Saturday. In order to get to Cuscan (near Machu Piccho) by next Friday, I will have to do 250 miles a day. This is realistic considering the nature of the roads, I just hope I don't hit any off road sections! Once I get to dear old Machu I'm going to slow down and spend a few days here and there, where ever the fancy takes me. Continuous riding day after day is very tiring and leaves you with no time to explore or even do mundane things like clothes washing. At the moment my mantra is a line from a Johnny Cash song ' This morning got out of bed and put on my cleanest dirty shirt!'
*footnote
Cuenca is at an elevation of 2500 metres (8200 ft) in the Andes and was founded in 1557
Because of its age, it has much more of a European feel to it , with its churches and public buildings, copy book Spanish.
It is named after a Spanish town of the same name
Finally a blast from the past in the Hotel Lobby 'Granddad's old bike - and it's British'
An ancient BSA single speed (probably from the 1950's)
Sounds like a good day Pete. Glad for you after the scary roads a couple of days ago. X
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