El Silencio

October 8th El Silencio

I decided to give Joseph and Mariya some space this morning and to head into Quepos. I had to seek out a socket for my front tyre as Honda in their infinite wisdom have a different size nut on the front wheel to the back. The socket I had with me only fitted the back!!! Sods law. The ride to Quepos is around 15 miles along fast highway, but before that I had to drive the 5 miles or so along dirt roads and make the river crossing or attempt the swing bridge. I decided I’d give the bridge a go.

I approached it with a degree of nervousness as the approach was quite steep and the gap between to two vertical pillars narrow. I knew I could get through the gap as on the way back from the beach yesterday I had measured it. It was approximately 4ft and my bike was 3’6”. I went up the ramp smoothly and was pleased that it easily went through the two posts. The next obstacle was right at the dead centre of the bridge. At some point the bridge had been damaged and the locals had made a temporary repair (which by all accounts became permanent). In effect the two half of the bridge were at different heights, which resulted in a drop off of about 2ft. This meant their was another ramp in the centre, coming from my direction it meant a down hill ramp. As i approached I was taken aback by the drop off and slowed right down and instinctively put my feet down, I began to descend, but as soon as my front wheel hit the second half of the bridge the bridge swayed with the weight, sending me and the bike sideways into the side meshing. The steel mesh stopped the bike from falling into the river 15ft below. I righted the bike and calmed myself down and tackled the rest of the bridge, which by comparison was relatively easy.

The bridge

Not sure if this is a better alternative

Qeopos was a small town the size of Liskeard. It was a busy Saturday morning but I instantly procured a socket and had a bun and a drink in a bakers, yummy. I then tried to see if I could get a spare inner tube from the motorcycle shop in town but without success. So I jumped on my bike and headed for a town further down the coast called San Ilcidro. I found the turnoff to the the town eventually and was on the road there when I could see up ahead dark and ominous rain clouds, I made the decision to turn around and head back home. There was always Monday as it was in the general direction of my onward journey south. 

I was enjoying the ride back into the sun on the open highway, when without notice I began to feel a wobble from the front tyre, i pulled up immediately and inspected and sure enough I had another puncture in the front tyre, I cursed and swore. Fortunately I was only a hundred yards from my turnoff to El Silence, unfortunately I had no tools with me at all, and no phone number for Joseph or Mariya. My only option was to ride the 5 miles back. Riding at walking pace 5 miles seems a very long way, but with a flat you have virtually no effective steering, it just doesn't like turning. The very rock strewn road and rocky ascents were challenging and I also had the bridge to cross again! I slowly got used to the bike in this state and made reasonable progress and eventually reached the bridge. I approached with some trepidation and noticed this time I had an audience - a group of youths swimming in the waters below. Strangely having the audience made me more confident and determined to get it right. Again I drove onto the ramp easily enough and when I hit the centre I halted and steadied myself for the ramp, I WENT UP IT SLOWLY and when my front wheel went onto the raised section to my delight there was no sudden swinging of the bridge, and the bike was up and over and back onto terra firms again with just the final steep ascent to sanctuary.

I took the wheel off in the garden and inspected the damage to the tube - it was in exactly the same place as the first puncture, though this time much smaller pin prick of an hole. The puncture sealant would have worked on this, but of course I’d used that all up. It started to rain persistently so I left putting the bike back together, determined though to do so the next day, first thing. Folks here rise early, around 5 am as by 12pm the heat is intolerable for any manual labour. It makes the days long  and is strange to look at your watch after what seems like a full day and it’s only 11am.

I will fix the puncture and get a new tyre (which I ordered) fitted as I think there must be a small hole which is pinching the inner tube somehow. This will mean me staying longer than I intended as the tyres will have to come from San Jose and will not arrive till Tuesday or Wednesday.

Though Joseph and Mariyas place is lovely and in many ways idyllic, it is a haven for mosquitoes and I am bitten constantly, what with my wasp wounds and mozzy bites I’m feeling like a pin cushion.

So another eventful day. I’m looking forward to an uneventful day sometime soon.