San Juan del Sur to Liberia

October 5th San Juan del Sur to Liberia (Costa Rica)

Hotel La Arena Costa Rica

Today I woke up longing for desayuno (breakfast) I hadn't eaten since the previous morning. The heat numbs my appetite and I think the stress of border crossings takes your mind off it. I left my room and into the garden, which at 7am had already reached a high temperature. I admired the Pacific and noticed with the tide out that there was a clear route across to the other side (no water). Never been good at timing. I was in no rush to leave as I only had 80 or so mile to cover - but I did have another bloody border to do.
I was joined at breakfast by an American living in Costa Rica who was in Nicaragua for two days in order to get another 90 day extension to his Costa Rica visa, which he gets when he re-enters. This must be a real pain to keep doing that, but he didn't seem to mind. We had a long conversation about US politics and the state of the world. It was interesting but there were some decidedly dodgy views being expressed. What was clear and many Americans have said this to me, they believe Hillary to be a crook. I did ask him to wikipedia Donald and he'd be clear then that he's got a choice between the least bad crook. He believed Hillary would win, so I asked him for his email so I could berate him if she didn't.
Though I'd been there some time chatting away, I was still on the road by 9am. Leaving by the dirt road this time I was within 20 metres of a road I'd ventured down yesterday. At the junction of this track there was no sign to the Hotel. It made me wander if the owner of the hotel actually wanted paying guest! He was Argentinian and I shall now forever think of him as the Argentinian John Cleese. I spoke with him before leaving and suggested he put a map on the Expedia website, he thought that was a great idea, Duh ! The border was only 25 miles away and in no time I was there. As I approached I drove around a mile long queue of Lorries - they must hate borders more than I do. As borders went, this was the most civilised of crossings and I was bounced from one official to the next relatively speedily. In no time I was through and the cheapest I've got away with yet. It took me 90 minutes, showing numerous officials the very same documentation. It is archaic and very hard to describe to someone who has not experienced it. Crossing these borders is like watching a black and white melodrama, hot, noisy, frenetic on one side of the counter and the other side, slow, indifferent and without compassion. Think of Graham Green meets Casablanca and you might get some idea. This border did not have long queues in the offices and some of the offices were air conditioned - so today, no drippy Pete!
The Costa Ricans insist on you purchasing insurance, which is a good thing. The other countries did not and even if you wanted to, there was nowhere obvious to purchase it.

The drive to my destination was Liberia, some 40 miles away, the roads were good and very light on traffic. I was there in no time and managed to get some money before looking for the hotel. Since crossing the border, Tinks has started talking to me again. I'm pleased about that as my other companion, Bonito is the strong silent type and says very little, just groans a lot. I had been missing the little conversations with Tinks and her simple maths (never shows her working out though) 're- cal- cue - lut.' I thought for a while that I was going to have a repeat of yesterday, Tinks took me to a turn off, which was a left hand turn which meant going across the other side of the motorway and obviously, across oncoming traffic. When I got there, it was all domestic housing. So back onto the motorway, I had to turn back the way I had come and repeat the same journey over again. This time I drove past this dangerous turn off and a few hundred yards up the road was my hotel (no real sign) but there was no turn off to get to it. I had to drive three miles further south before I was able to come back down the opposite side of the motorway heading back into Liberia and the hotel.
The hotel/motel is fine and the owner is a young American born Costa Rican who came back to his roots with his Mum and Dad who developed the place. I had a long conversation with him and I think he enjoyed speaking English again. He had a lovely pet dog, who looked happy and well cared for and guess what? You got it the dog is black!!!

 Note black dog with collar, mat and dog bowl top right hand corner

Foot note: 

My facial hair, before it went grey went ginger in the sun, maybe all these dogs started out black - while the domestic pets staying indoors mainly kept their colour. One to ponder on. 

Saw less stray dogs in Costa Rica

Place looks even better cared for than Nicaragua 

Still every country I visit, has few kind words for their neighbours and blames any problems they have on their neighbours - excepting Hondurans - they seem to know they are a problem! I like their honesty

Finally the border town is called Penas Blanca, I was wondering why I didn't see many children, the clue is in the name!!!